The Labor and Delivery Survival Kits that Jo created this spring for our pregnant friends come in a cute little buttoned pouch. These kits are great because we’ve done all the legwork for you and gathered all the supplies together in an affordable bundle, which you can purchase in our store. However, the buttoned pouches themselves are useful for much more than just these kits! You can use them for a makeup bag, toiletry bag, craft supply bag, or even a clutch purse. The size is customizable and the fabric is too, giving you a very versatile design. So in case you need a cute little buttoned pouch for any reason, I thought I’d take a few minutes to show you just how easy cotton draw string pouches are to be manufactured.

Step 1: Make a pattern

The most fun and customizable part of this is that you get to decide how big you want your bag to be, so take a moment to figure out the length and width you want. For example, the finished bag I’m illustrating for you here is 6 inches tall and 9 inches wide. Once you’ve got the size in mind, add 1 inch to the height and 1.5 inches to the width to account for seam allowances, to get your base rectangle size. For my bag, that’s 7″ x 10.5″.

Now transfer those measurements to a piece of paper or cardstock (I drew a 7″ x 10.5″ rectangle). Next, draw a triangle right above it that has a height that’s 2 inches less than the height of your bag (in my case, my triangle was 5″ tall at the peak). Finally, draw another rectangle the same size as the first one, right next to it. It can be on either the left or right, it doesn’t matter. (Note that as you do this, if your paper isn’t big enough, feel free to tape a few sheets together, like I did. It’s just a pattern; who cares how good it looks!) Now cut the whole thing out. This pattern can also be used for Eco friendly printer jute shopping bag in Bangladesh.

Step 2: Cut the fabric

Use your new pattern to cut out two pieces of fabric, both the same size. If you want the inside and outside of the bag to be different patterns, you can use two different fabrics, like I did. When you cut the pieces, it doesn’t matter which side the extra hanging rectangle is on.

Stage 3: Attach the two pieces

Start by collapsing each bit of texture fifty-fifty, across, with the correct sides contacting (as such, back to front). Pin at the edge where the two closures meet, and sew set up. Sew along the pinned lines, and trim the very tip of the fabric off at the peak of the triangle, being careful not to cut the stitches. This will help in a minute when we flip it inside out.

Presently take whichever bit of texture you need to be in within the sack (for me, it was the yellow one) and turn it right side out, so the completed side of the texture is outwardly. At that point stuff it down inside the other piece and line it up.

Your two bits of texture ought to have their completed sides contacting.

Pin along the triangle and the head of the square shape, sticking the two textures together along the edges, however be mindful so as not to stick the front and back of the pack together. The stuck sack ought to have the option to stand up all alone, similar to a cylinder.

Sew along the stuck lines, and trim the very tip of the texture off at the pinnacle of the triangle, being mindful so as not to cut the lines. This will help in brief when we flip it back to front.

Stage 4: Finish the top

Flip the sack right side out, so the external texture (for me, it was the striped one) is outwardly, and the liner texture (yellow) is within. Jab a pencil inside the pinnacle of the triangle to shape it, if necessary. Spread the sack out quite level and smooth out the edges.

Utilize the sewing machine to run a line of top sewing all around the top edge.

This will make the kickoff of the pack more completed the process of looking, and the fold will be considerably more steady.

Stage 5: Sew the base

With the pack right side out, pin along the base edge and utilize the sewing machine to sew it set up. It might appear wrong to have the pack right side out, yet we will a French crease, which will bode well in one moment.

Utilize some scissors to manage the base of the sack as close as you can get to the column of lines, however be mindful so as not to cut them. At that point flip the sack back to front, so the coating (yellow for my situation) is outwardly.

Sew along the base edge of the pack, coming up enough to encase the column of fastens you made a moment back, which are presently within.

Turn the pack right side out once more, and notice how decent the crease looks on the base of the sack, without any join appearing. What’s more, in the event that you look inside the pack, you’ll see a pleasant, spotless, sewn edge inside, with no frayed edges appearing. That is the French crease!

Stage 6: Add the conclusion

Most sewing machines these days have a buttonhole highlight, so in the event that you have one, use it to add a buttonhole to the point of your sack’s fold. At that point sew a catch set up and you’re set.

On the off chance that you don’t have a buttonhole highlight, or are reluctant to manage buttonholes, you can swindle a little – simply sew a catch on the fold and include some sew Velcro circles or a snap underneath.

The completed pack

Isn’t this the cutest thing ever? Furthermore, it was so natural to make!

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